A tale of two single-hops

A big part of the brewer’s art is blending various hops in ways that show off the best combinations of their character. But there’s also something to be said for single-hop beers that illustrate what individual varieties bring to the party.

Both Twelve String and Perry Street released single-hop pale ales this week that demonstrate the range of possibilities.

Twelve String’s seasonal Spring Reverb launched exclusively with Delta hops in 2012 and has featured Simcoe, Mosaic and Galaxy in years since. For 2016, brewer Terry Hackler has returned to Mosaic, but in a bigger way – using almost twice the amount of hops and focusing more on late additions for flavor and aroma.

As the name suggests, Mosaic was bred to produce a collage of characteristics, and the new Reverb (6 percent alcohol by volume, 50 International Bitterness Units) is a prime example.

Huge tropical and stone fruit aromas carry over into the flavor, underpinned by earthy, grassy notes that last into the lingering, lightly bitter finish. The medium-bodied, rich golden beer has just enough malt sweetness to support it all.

Hackler plans to up the ante with a cask-conditioned version, dry-hopped with more Mosaic, on March 5 as part of that day’s launch of the new Inland Northwest Ale Trail map.

Perry’s comparatively old-school Centennial single-hop is a bit more subdued, but deep and equally complex.

It’s the latest in a line of single-hop pales that stretch back to an Azacca version when the brewery opened in March 2014, followed by El Dorado, Amarillo, Citra, Equinox, Comet, Mosaic and most recently another Amarillo with a killer orange-tangerine character.

The dryish, deep amber Centennial (5.4, 40) balances citrusy lemon flavors that grow as it warms against floral and spicy-piney notes, building to a long, drying finish.

“I've always been a huge fan of Centennial and I still think it stands up to a single-hop situation better than almost any other hop,” brewer Ben Lukes says.

“This and Amarillo will be the hops we rely on the rest of the year to pack the flavor, and we'll use Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra and Chinook to smack them with big aroma.”   

Both breweries open at noon today for the annual Washington Beer Open House, with Twelve String pouring sours aged in cognac, tequila and rum barrels and Perry Street offering tours at 2 and 4 p.m.