Reaching new heights?

To me, the words “Rainier” and “ale” have always conjured memories of the infamous Green Death – in particular, its mass consumption at a certain backyard shed sleepover (long story, wrong blog).

Now comes Rainier Pale Mountain Ale, inspired by a post-Prohibition recipe, the latest offering from an iconic Northwest brand that’s currently owned by Pabst and produced in California.

The new ale (5.3 percent alcohol by volume, 28 International Bitterness Units) is the first beer brewed by Rainier in Washington since 2003 (the original brewery closed in 1999). The brewing takes place at the Redhook/Craft Brew Alliance facility in Woodinville, which Pabst has an option to buy – a distinct possibility since much of Redhook’s West Coast production has moved to the Widmer/CBA brewery in Portland, with sales for both brands slumping.

Pale Mountain Ale comes in six-packs of pounders, an old Rainier tradition, at a decidedly newfangled price point of $12. It’s not a bad beer to look at, with its rich amber color (akin to an English-style pale) and respectable head retention and lacing.

Its body is lighter and crisper than the color might suggest. The flavor is malt-forward and moderately sweet up front, with some earthy Fuggle hop presence in the middle before finishing on the sweeter side. Some tasters have compared it to a rounder German altbier, brewed with ale yeast but cold-conditioned like a lager (think Alaskan Amber).

All in all, it tastes more crafty than craft. But it’s certainly a step forward from the Green Death days; we can almost hear those Mountain Fresh Rainiers rumbling in the distance …