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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Blackbird’s moment to arise

Rick Bonino

Manito Tap House’s new sister, The Blackbird, is all grown up and ready to turn some heads.

The stylish “tavern + kitchen” officially opens today in the historic Broadview Dairy building just north of Riverfront Park at 905 N. Washington (former home of Caterina Winery).

“We’ve taken what we’ve learned there (at Manito) and taken it to the next level,” says Patrick McPherson, owner of both.

The feel is more upscale, from the wood-fired grill and smoker that churn out much of the creative menu, to the chic black-and-gray color scheme accented by plenty of wood.

Reclamation is the order of the day at The Blackbird, which like Manito will be a certified green restaurant.  

Both the bartops and the taster tray paddles are fashioned from former train car flooring.  An old foundry pattern was turned into a round glass-topped table. Each of the red plastic chairs is made from 111 recycled Coke bottles.

Closer to home, the dairy’s original hanging lighting was refurbished, and creamery cooling panels were repurposed into room dividers.

Unlike Manito, there’s no beer signage to be seen on the walls, though a series of blueprint posters for patented beer processes hang near the entrance.

There’s seating for around 100 people both inside (plus two banquet/meeting rooms) and on the spacious patio, with its two dozen teak tables sheltered by red umbrellas.

By now, of course, you’re asking, what about the beer? There’s lots to choose from among the 34 carefully curated taps (compared to 50 at Manito), their contents digitally displayed above generic black and white handles.

But where The Blackbird really shines is its bottle selection – more than 100 varieties so far, which will keep growing, centering around barrel-aged, Belgian and sour styles. You can peer into the cellar through a glass window on the way to the restrooms (with their bottle-shaped sinks).

Two of the tap selections are served straight from the cellar at a proper 45 degrees for bigger beers (the typical draft system is 38 or cooler). For starters, those were the incredibly complex Cuvee des Jacobins Rouge, a sour Flanders red from Belgium, and Dogfish Head’s huge World Wide Stout (2013 vintage).

The food menu has a Southern accent, reflecting executive chef Molly Patrick’s Georgia roots. Along with the likes of smoked chicken, crispy skin salmon, roasted spaghetti and pot pie, there’s an assortment of sandwiches starring brisket, lamb, pork belly and smoked turkey.

Then there are the starters – a step up on the eclectic scale from Manito’s much-beloved yam chips. Get ready for chorizo corn dogs, bacon fat popcorn and bone marrow tater tots, which get an extra richness from the bits of “beef butter” inside.

Hours are Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday and Sunday starting at 8 a.m. for breakfast, with Mondays to be added once the operation hits full stride.